THE BURGER BEAT – The Boston Globe

One in a series on good burgers in the region that will run until Labor Day.

Lee’s Burger Place, in Newton for six years, has a second location, named simply Lee’s Burgers, which opened last winter in Coolidge Corner. At both the Newton and Brookline spots, you’ll find a menu short on frills, with just a couple of specialties, but the standards are done well. Jimmy Wong, who acquired the business in 2013, is dedicated to offering quality fast food at a good value, made in a friendly environment. There are a few healthy offerings, including burgers made with grilled chicken, portobello, and turkey, and a veggie burger, along with a selection of smoothies. The fries, made from frozen, arrive piping hot.

A rock-solid choice here is the bacon cheeseburger ($6.75), one of the shop’s most popular offerings. The patty, fom Roxbury’s F.B. Packing Co., is seasoned with just salt and pepper, and cooked on a gas grill (huge improvement over griddles when cooking burgers). At the Brookline location, this happens in full view of the customers, which makes your mouth water as you watch.

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The patty is combined with American cheese, too much iceberg lettuce, and for an extra quarter (splurge), grilled onions, which are tender and flavorful. Pickles, a tomato slice, and crisp bacon top the patty. Lee’s square buns are from La Marca & Sons of Malden. While ketchup, mustard, A.1., and hot sauce are available, Lee’s “special sauce,” a tangy blend of mayo, honey, and mustard, is as good as it is simple. When you can’t fire up your own grill, this classic is a worthy substitute.

Lee’s Burgers

1331 Beacon St., Brookline, 617-487-8689; Lee’s Burger Place, 216 Summer St., Newton,617-795-2022

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