Line-caught bluefish pairs with a French pink – The Boston Globe

Kristin Canty

Much of the meat on the menu of Woods Hill Table is supplied by owner Kristin Canty’s farm in New Hampshire. This inspired Kelly Coggins, beverage director until late last month, to curate a list of organic and biodynamic pours for the beef and pork, and also for locally caught fish. One wine the West Concord restaurant offers is a 2014 Jean-Francois Merieau pink called La Rosee ($10 a glass, $38 a bottle), crafted from pineau d’aunis, a dark-skinned grape grown in France’s Loire Valley. Coggins describes it as “minerally with a white pepper note,” with “green strawberry and grapefruit skin.” These characteristics pair well with an entree of line-caught bluefish steaks ($25), which are slow roasted, sauced with butter-enriched cider, and served with bolete mushrooms, thinly sliced potatoes, and nasturtiums. Ever mindful about using the whole fish, what flesh remains on the bones is turned into a smoked pate. Woods Hill Table, 24 Commonwealth Ave., West Concord, 978-369-6300,