Ceviche four ways at Olé – The Boston Globe

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Four distinct ceviches are on the menu at Olé Mexican Grill’s new ceviche bar, located in the back dining room of the Cambridge restaurant. Ceviche, by definition, is seafood that “cooks” in citrus juices; the brief marinade gives the raw fish the texture of cooked. A native of the Philippines, Olé chef and owner Erwin Ramos grew up eating a coconut-infused ceviche-style dish called kinilaw, prepared by his mother. On a recent trip to Baja, Mexico, Ramos ate a ceviche with similar seasonings. Now he fillets whole red snapper at the bar to make ceviche Filipina ($14). “Having a whole fish makes the flavor 100 percent better,” he says. His mother’s recipe is “made with lots of ginger, lots of lemon, coconut vinegar, and coconut milk.” Ceviche verde ($13) uses tuna, a blend of green herbs, mango, and jicama. Te amo ($15) includes lobster, scallops, and other seafood in a red chile sauce; Yucatan ($13) packs in the heat with a yellow habanero sauce for shrimp and calamari.

Olé Mexican Grill, 11 Springfield St., Cambridge, 617-492-4495, www.olerestaurantgroup.com

LISE STERN

Aram Boghosian for The Boston Globe

Aram Boghosian for The Boston Globe

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